The cool winter temperatures and odd rainy day didn't stop my good friend Leila, Blake and I from getting up early each morning, whipping out our travel guides and metro map to see what new adventure Tokyo could give us. Whilst we did do a lot of walking, the city is easy to get around once you've worked out where to go. The hard part is coming out of the subway not knowing which exit you've taken and having to find your way to where you need to head. We had many a chuckle upon exiting a station and realising nothing looked familiar.
We had a list a mile long of all the things we'd like to do in the three days we were in Tokyo, but not everything made it into the day's itinerary. We tackled the plan by looking at the things to see in each district and dedicated a few hours to each then moved, logically along the JR line to the next area. The maps help wonders to do this and in comparison to say, New York or Sydney, the CBD and surrounding precincts of Tokyo are very close together.
So this is what we did - enjoy!
This bustling metropolis with the famed Shibuya Crossing at the heart was one of my favourite places in Tokyo. We sat in one of the upper level cafes (and I had a cigarette inside - cos I could) and peered down at all the pedestrians scurrying across the road. There's plenty of shopping to be had in this trendy, youth enriched precinct and a karaoke bar on almost every corner. Try and find the Hachiko statue near the train station!
Arguably the 'alternate' fashion hub of Tokyo with streets such as Takeshita-Dori and Cat Street where you can find all things bizarre and extraordinary. Shop for big name brands on Omotesando Street and stop in for pancakes at one of the many packed parlours. Ask first before you take a photo of the eccentrically dolled Harajuku girls and see what reaction you get. Ours was not pleasant.
Unlike the regional areas of Japan, Tokyo doesn’t seem to have a lot of historic or traditional architecture that we’re used to seeing on the telly. A visit to Meiji Jingu, a shrine dedicated to the current Emperor’s great-grandfather is worth a wander through the pristine, immaculately maintained gardens up to the main building. Write a prayer to hang on the wall or buy one of the charms for luck - my favourite was a charm for traffic safety.
Equally as impressive was catching a glimpse of the Imperial Palace nestled on a hill beyond the bridge in Chiyoda. Whilst it is only open to the public twice a year, the manicured grounds and surrounding park are shining examples of Japanese artistry.
By far one of the stand out experiences whilst in Tokyo was going to a live sumo wrestling tournament at Ryogoku Kokugikan. This was such an entertaining spectacle, the crowd getting behind the favourites and cheering them on, and us crammed into our box seats (a 1.5x1.5m square on the floor with four cushions) eating bento and beaming from ear to ear, laughing hysterically at the skinny white sumos and of course the big fat ones. Check when a tournament is being held first and time your trip to ensure you can include this in your itinerary.
Whilst on the train one day, we spotted this giant ferris wheel as we passed Suidobashi and decided to check it out the next day. The three of us rode the 'Big O' at the LaQua Centre near the Tokyo Dome, a fun park with rides, arcade games and even a roller coaster that has track zooming past nearby buildings. Perfect inner city spot for kids, big and small.
By day Shinjuku is the epitome of department store shopping malls layered one on top of the other, several storeys high. The area also boasts some of the most picturesque tall buildings which by night, the cityscape is ablaze with glittering lights and bright fluoro signage – it’s like a carnival. Be sure to wander down Electric Street for PC and home appliance outlets. One evening we headed for the Golden Gai area - home to Tokyo's mafia. After creeping down dark alleys and peering into rooms and bars not open to foreigners, we ended at Bon’s ‘American-themed’ bar with spag bol and pizza on the menu, posters of music artists and US brands, and one of the few 'safe' places in the district. It was here that we ordered the only red wine on the menu only to discover it was Jacob’s Creek shiraz and cost us $45 a bottle. In the Ni-chome gay district, apart from the A-frame signs we passed along the way pointing out ‘Gay Bar this Way’ you’d never know you were in a red light district. We traipsed in to Art Farty and whilst it was a little after 9pm on a Monday and consequently dead atmosphere, we could see how it’d be fun on a normal night.
Jump on the monorail (Yurikamome Line) from Shimbashi for a trip to the bay area, home to the Fuji TV headquarters, Telecom Center and more shopping and amusement parks! The strangest experience was walking through Venus Fort, a shopping centre that had been themed in provincial Venetian streetscape complete with artificial blue sky ceiling. It's worth having as look at 'Megaweb' also which is the Toyota showroom and test drive centre. Have lunch at Decks Tokyo Beach which affords a superb view of the Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo skyline - there's even a Statue of Liberty for those who yearn for that NYC feeling.
NEED TO KNOW
For an excellent location and walking access to shops, restaurants and transport, the Shibuya Excel Hotel in Mark City looks down on the Crossing and Shibuya train station with great views on high floors. We also stayed at Hotel Sunroute Akasaka (pictured) on the Marunouchi subway line. The staff are extremely helpful and spoke excellent English. The rooms are cosy and quiet at night and there's a good cafe on the ground floor for breakfast. Most places in Tokyo don't open until 11am so it's a good idea to have breakfast included in your hotel booking.
We had excellent meals everywhere we ate in Tokyo but keep an eye on the menu prices - whilst it is a little more expensive than what we're used to in Australia, some places will charge more than necessary. We had a delicious lunch at Gonpachi in Shibuya, high on the 14th floor and pre-dinner 600ml stein glasses of Sapporo and dumplings at the Brasserie Ginza Lion in Shibuya Mark City. Everywhere has food replicas in the front window so you can browse to see what takes your fancy before you go inside and sit down.
Aside from the sumo experience, I really loved seeing first hand the fashion/obscurity of Japanese modern culture (much like these very practical sunglasses Leila tried on in Harajuku) and treading the pavements of the different districts in the city. The rail system is easy to navigate once you've practiced. I love the combined Suica/Pasmo card you can buy which means your entire above and belowground rail travel is covered. You just top it up when you run out. Sadly, we discovered this a bit too late - don't make the same mistake!
LEAVE home with lots of cash
Tokyo is an expensive city but well worth the visit as the culture and charisma engulf you in every direction you look, but you do need to be prepared to spend a bit on dining, souvenirs and clothing.
Verdict: Love Tokyo and would really love to return to Japan in the spring time and head south-west to Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima.
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