Bali view, me

Acting on impulse about 8 months ago, I booked a 'take a friend for free' airfare special and twisted Kristy's arm to come with me. As word caught on more of my great friends joined the Bali bandwagon and thus, without any effort, the perfect holiday abroad was born. We spent a total of seven nights in Bali, broken up over three locations: Seminyak for style, Ubud for well-being and Nusa Lembongan for the fun huts on the beach.

SEMINYAK
Emerging as the new trendy place to be seen in Bali, Seminyak had everything you could want out of a holiday in the tropics: great restaurants, relaxed resort-style bars, typical Bali beaches and windy laneways lined with street vendors, quirky shops and designer boutiques. This was shaping up to be the start of an excellent week away with friends.

Snug - The Bali Dream Villa
Arriving at our accommodation late at night and weary from the travel we were all nauseatingly hysterical to open the front gate of our private suites at The Bali Dream Villa. It revealed a luxurious, tranquil courtyard that spilled from the open air living area and enclosed (air-conditioned) bedroom. We all trembled with excitement, matched with disbelief that any hotel room could be so gorgeous. For such a compact space, the oversized bathroom with outdoor shower, L-shaped relaxation pool and lounge, kitchen, dining area, it seemed like a fancy home away from home. The staff were also super friendly and serve buffet breakfast each morning with eggs just the way you like them.

Feed - Ku De Ta
We were spoiled by the amazing meal and relaxed afternoon atmosphere of Australian-owned Ku De Ta restaurant. Sipping sangrias on the deck whilst watching the sunset over the beach, our tummies were treated in the evening to a gorgeous dinner in the main restaurant building. Made from fresh local ingredients in the fine dining style to which we are accustomed, both delicious courses were bursting with earthen flavour from the succulence of my entree of pork belly with soft shell crab salad to the decadence of Blake's main of slow roasted 'brick' lamb shoulder. Do yourself a favour and check it out!

Love - Cocoon
Why not sip cocktails and nibble on canapes whilst overlooking the ocean? Cocoon Bar was the best place to spend a lazy afternoon following a few hours on Seminyak Beach drinking Bintang. The scattered lounges and deck chairs on the poolside patio all afford great views of the beach. At night there's a DJ playing outside and formal dining in the restaurant indoors. They even hose the sand off your feet at the front door before you enter!

Leave
If you're not into bargain hunting or walk up sellers peddling their wares then the crowded public beaches might not be your thing. We had some great advice from Arun at our hotel who said, "Just say no thank you in a polite way and they'll leave you alone." We actually didn't mind the friendly locals.

UBUD
A visit to Ubud is well worth the half-hour drive north for a rewarding experience in a quiet village, relatively untouched by hordes of tourists. With quaint shops and cafes, lush rainforest surrounds and far less scooters on the roads, it's the ideal place to head to in Bali for a few days' escape and recharge.

To describe Ubud as being the place in Bali to hang out if you're a hippie, would not be at all inaccurate - there are yoga-lovers everywhere. But for the everyday tourist, Ubud's character, creativity and vast selection of massage studios and relaxation houses is what sets it apart from its coastal counterparts. It's a place to rejuvenate the mind and body. Whilst the others in my group had massages daily I enjoyed a visit to the art galleries. The one massage I did have was particularly super and everyone in our group raved about their experiences. Staying in Ubud created such a positive vibe that made us crave wellness and allowed us to completely forget our day-to-day woes. Seriously.

Snug - Villa di Abing
Sharing a three-bedroom house with your friends can go either way on holiday but Villa di Abing provided us with the perfect nest to retreat to after a day of ambling or pampering. All bedrooms are air-conditioned, two with their own private bath and outdoor shower. The beautiful staff cook a light breakfast each morning

and an on-site security guard keeps you safe at night. The villa itself is three-storey with open plan Balinese design so at night you feel like you're sitting amongst the natural rainforest. Relax in the tranquil pool, nestled at the bottom of the property under a canopy of frangipani, with bamboo and banana trees the blissful backdrop. A true tropical oasis.

Feed
There are many fantastic places to eat in Ubud and all of them are well-priced and generous in their serving size. This delicious prawn was one of many I was amazed to see on my plate (for the price I paid for dinner) at Nomad, although the winner was Jon who had Balinese tapas: two giant platters of tasty traditional fare. Travel five minutes by taxi from the main streets of Ubud to Indus which overlooks the Tjampuhan River and has spectacular sunset views of the surrounding hills and rice terraces. Again, we ordered entree and mains as the menu was too good to choose from and were once again thrilled at the quality and service of our meal. To sample some local flavour, head to the home of babi guling (baby suckling pig) in Ubud. Warung Ibu Oka is open during lunch hours and is a popular eating hall in the heart of town. Blake, Kathleen and I drank coconut water from the coconut after a day at the markets whilst Jon and Kristy tasted the mouth-watering porky delights.

Love - Kintamani and Mount Batur
After leaving the Ubud leg of our holiday we journeyed to the village of Kintamani to see the active volcano Mt Batur. From the picture you can see the mark of its last eruption in 1996 and remarkably, the village of Toya Bungkah (home to the Toya Devasya natural hot spring) lies at the foothills of its reach on the edge of Lake Batur. This area is so picturesque and a refreshing example of Bali's diverse terrain other than beaches and forests. On the way from Ubud you can stop in at Tirta Empul Tampaksiring (water temple), sample luwak coffee from the plantation and on the way south to Sanur, we drove through all the wholesaler villages dedicated to producing Bali's exports such as wood carvings and furniture (Mas), artworks and painting (Batuan) and gold and sliver (Celuk). To hire a driver from Ubud for the day and drop off in Sanur was about AUD$50 split between the five of us.

Leave
If you're going to venture into the Monkey Forest in Ubud, make sure you leave all food items in your bag at the front gate and hold on to your hat! As I'd never seen monkeys in the wild before it was a good first-hand experience in a relatively controlled environment. Kristy may not entirely agree as some of the playful primates found pleasure in eating her elephant straw hat and climbing all over her. One little monkey even bit her - so be careful! I like these three in the photo, lazing around just literally, nitpicking (and that wasn't the worst thing we saw them do!)

NUSA LEMBONGAN
Jump on board a jet boat from Sanur across to the 'quiet island' of Nusa Lembongan. The trip took about 25 minutes on the Marlin Lembongan Cruiser and cost around AUD$35 return per person. There are other boat options that can take you across the Bali Sea and each vary in cost and travel time.

As we approached the island and saw the moorings in the distance we had high hopes that this was going to be extraordinary but also expectations that straying from the mainland to stay in huts on a remote island no-one ever goes to would end up in tragedy. Luckily, it turned out to be more than we had hoped. After disembarking the Marlin, we climbed in to the back of a ute with bench seating and a hooded roof and bumped along the track to Dream Beach - the final destination in our Bali sojourn.

Snug - Dream Beach Huts
What more could you want for a slice of paradise? Our own private beach, unobstructed views of the ocean and our very own Dream Beach Huts to relax in after a day of, well, relaxing. These individual, traditional Balinese huts are fairly basic with no air-conditioning (but there is a ceiling fan) and an outdoor bathroom that does not have fresh running water BUT they feel like you're living on a deserted island. Wake up each morning to the sound of the crashing waves and step out onto your secluded verandah and welcome the morning sunshine. It was magic. And the perfect end to a perfect week.

Feed
Whilst there is a village on Nusa Lembongan and a few other small seaside communities, we were having such a great time at the resort that we hardly left it and ate all our meals at its Cafe Pandan which overlooked the ocean and infinity pool. Charge everything to your room and pay it all on check-out so you don't need to carry around a wallet. Our stay included complimentary breakfast each morning, an affordable BBQ Happy Hour every afternoon and a dinner menu that equalled anywhere else we'd been in Bali.

LOVE
Take a trip around to the far end of Nusa Lembongan to Mangrove Beach. Here is where you'll find all the local boats that can take you out for a few hours of snorkelling in the sparkling shallow waters, home to colourful reef coral and thousands of tropical fish. We toured out with Jiva Warung - a family-owned business based in Jungutbatu Village and again, the couple were extremely friendly and helpful. Having never snorkelled before I was a little nervous about my ability to use flippers but very little effort was required as we let the gentle current drift us along the rocky shoreline as we peered down through our masks at the breathtaking wonderland that laid below. I highly recommend this activity whilst on the island, and Jiva Warung cost us the equivalent of AUD$10 each for almost three hours on the water.

Leave
Unless you're very confident or very stupid, leave riding a scooter to the experts. They are quite dangerous and not as easy as they look. Also, most travel insurers will not cover you for accidents unless you hold a motorcycle license. To say the least, Kristy and I both learned that this mode of transport just does not fit within our personal brand (or capability).

Verdict: Love (not necessarily after 'Eat, Pray') in the purest sense of the word. Would definitely make Bali an annual, affordable holiday destination.

Tokyo in three days

Since returning home from Japan, I've had quite a number of people tell me that a visit to Tokyo is on their bucket list. Many of us have travelled to Asia and some several times, but Japan seems just that bit further away from home and perhaps a bit daunting for some who don't like packed cities and complex train networks. And as I've said to my friends and family since I've been back, "Tokyo is very easy to get around in only a few days." Which is exactly what we did.

The cool winter temperatures and odd rainy day didn't stop my good friend Leila, Blake and I from getting up early each morning, whipping out our travel guides and metro map to see what new adventure Tokyo could give us. Whilst we did do a lot of walking, the city is easy to get around once you've worked out where to go. The hard part is coming out of the subway not knowing which exit you've taken and having to find your way to where you need to head. We had many a chuckle upon exiting a station and realising nothing looked familiar.

We had a list a mile long of all the things we'd like to do in the three days we were in Tokyo, but not everything made it into the day's itinerary. We tackled the plan by looking at the things to see in each district and dedicated a few hours to each then moved, logically along the JR line to the next area. The maps help wonders to do this and in comparison to say, New York or Sydney, the CBD and surrounding precincts of Tokyo are very close together.

So this is what we did - enjoy!

Shibuya
This bustling metropolis with the famed Shibuya Crossing at the heart was one of my favourite places in Tokyo. We sat in one of the upper level cafes (and I had a cigarette inside - cos I could) and peered down at all the pedestrians scurrying across the road. There's plenty of shopping to be had in this trendy, youth enriched precinct and a karaoke bar on almost every corner. Try and find the Hachiko statue near the train station!

Harajuku
Arguably the 'alternate' fashion hub of Tokyo with streets such as Takeshita-Dori and Cat Street where you can find all things bizarre and extraordinary. Shop for big name brands on Omotesando Street and stop in for pancakes at one of the many packed parlours. Ask first before you take a photo of the eccentrically dolled Harajuku girls and see what reaction you get. Ours was not pleasant.

Meiji Jingu
Unlike the regional areas of Japan, Tokyo doesn’t seem to have a lot of historic or traditional architecture that we’re used to seeing on the telly. A visit to Meiji Jingu, a shrine dedicated to the current Emperor’s great-grandfather is worth a wander through the pristine, immaculately maintained gardens up to the main building. Write a prayer to hang on the wall or buy one of the charms for luck - my favourite was a charm for traffic safety.

Imperial Palace (Chiyoda)
Equally as impressive was catching a glimpse of the Imperial Palace nestled on a hill beyond the bridge in Chiyoda. Whilst it is only open to the public twice a year, the manicured grounds and surrounding park are shining examples of Japanese artistry.

Sumo Tournament (Ryogoku)
By far one of the stand out experiences whilst in Tokyo was going to a live sumo wrestling tournament at Ryogoku Kokugikan. This was such an entertaining spectacle, the crowd getting behind the favourites and cheering them on, and us crammed into our box seats (a 1.5x1.5m square on the floor with four cushions) eating bento and beaming from ear to ear, laughing hysterically at the skinny white sumos and of course the big fat ones. Check when a tournament is being held first and time your trip to ensure you can include this in your itinerary.

Tokyo Dome Centre (Suidobashi)
Whilst on the train one day, we spotted this giant ferris wheel as we passed Suidobashi and decided to check it out the next day. The three of us rode the 'Big O' at the LaQua Centre near the Tokyo Dome, a fun park with rides, arcade games and even a roller coaster that has track zooming past nearby buildings. Perfect inner city spot for kids, big and small.

Shinjuku
By day Shinjuku is the epitome of department store shopping malls layered one on top of the other, several storeys high. The area also boasts some of the most picturesque tall buildings which by night, the cityscape is ablaze with glittering lights and bright fluoro signage – it’s like a carnival. Be sure to wander down Electric Street for PC and home appliance outlets. One evening we headed for the Golden Gai area - home to Tokyo's mafia. After creeping down dark alleys and peering into rooms and bars not open to foreigners, we ended at Bon’s ‘American-themed’ bar with spag bol and pizza on the menu, posters of music artists and US brands, and one of the few 'safe' places in the district. It was here that we ordered the only red wine on the menu only to discover it was Jacob’s Creek shiraz and cost us $45 a bottle. In the Ni-chome gay district, apart from the A-frame signs we passed along the way pointing out ‘Gay Bar this Way’ you’d never know you were in a red light district. We traipsed in to Art Farty and whilst it was a little after 9pm on a Monday and consequently dead atmosphere, we could see how it’d be fun on a normal night.

Odaiba
Jump on the monorail (Yurikamome Line) from Shimbashi for a trip to the bay area, home to the Fuji TV headquarters, Telecom Center and more shopping and amusement parks! The strangest experience was walking through Venus Fort, a shopping centre that had been themed in provincial Venetian streetscape complete with artificial blue sky ceiling. It's worth having as look at 'Megaweb' also which is the Toyota showroom and test drive centre. Have lunch at Decks Tokyo Beach which affords a superb view of the Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo skyline - there's even a Statue of Liberty for those who yearn for that NYC feeling.

NEED TO KNOW

SNUG
For an excellent location and walking access to shops, restaurants and transport, the Shibuya Excel Hotel in Mark City looks down on the Crossing and Shibuya train station with great views on high floors. We also stayed at Hotel Sunroute Akasaka (pictured) on the Marunouchi subway line. The staff are extremely helpful and spoke excellent English. The rooms are cosy and quiet at night and there's a good cafe on the ground floor for breakfast. Most places in Tokyo don't open until 11am so it's a good idea to have breakfast included in your hotel booking.

FEED
We had excellent meals everywhere we ate in Tokyo but keep an eye on the menu prices - whilst it is a little more expensive than what we're used to in Australia, some places will charge more than necessary. We had a delicious lunch at Gonpachi in Shibuya, high on the 14th floor and pre-dinner 600ml stein glasses of Sapporo and dumplings at the Brasserie Ginza Lion in Shibuya Mark City. Everywhere has food replicas in the front window so you can browse to see what takes your fancy before you go inside and sit down.

LOVE
Aside from the sumo experience, I really loved seeing first hand the fashion/obscurity of Japanese modern culture (much like these very practical sunglasses Leila tried on in Harajuku) and treading the pavements of the different districts in the city. The rail system is easy to navigate once you've practiced. I love the combined Suica/Pasmo card you can buy which means your entire above and belowground rail travel is covered. You just top it up when you run out. Sadly, we discovered this a bit too late - don't make the same mistake!

LEAVE home with lots of cash
Tokyo is an expensive city but well worth the visit as the culture and charisma engulf you in every direction you look, but you do need to be prepared to spend a bit on dining, souvenirs and clothing.

Verdict: Love Tokyo and would really love to return to Japan in the spring time and head south-west to Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima.

Ski, snow and Asahi

I never imagined I'd be on the business side of 30 years old before I'd catch my first glimpse of snow but those first moments of seeing the tiny flakes fall from the frosty Japanese sky were nothing short of magical. Joining a group of friends on their ski trip to Hakuba, about 274km north-west of Tokyo, was an experience of a life time and for a first time skier and snow virgin, the trip was made even more wonderful, full of challenges and surprised.

The train ride out to Hakuba is nothing spectacular in the first hour other than witnessing the density of Tokyo’s outer suburbs. Snowcapped roofs dotted throughout a jungle of overhead electrical wires and the occasional bare tree. The further west we travelled, the snow on the ground increased. From Hachioji to Kofu, the terrain changes and starts to become more mountainous, almost instantly, like the city ends suddenly and then alpine wilderness takes over. Upon arrival at Hakuba Station, the snow was 'puking' down as we scrambled into our mini-bus bound for our chalet accommodation.

On day one, Blake and I walked down to get coffee in a can at the vending machine nearby before our first skiing lesson with our Japanese instructor. His English was ok but there were a few times where he'd say, "Please do it!" or "Please try!" and I couldn't help but get agitated with myself at how difficult skiing was at first, and with him giving us encouragement rather than direction. He was very polite but not entirely useful. Anyone who says to you that skiing is easy has forgotten what it was like when they first learned. Balance was hard to begin with but we improved over the first 2 hours. Turning and stopping also took a bit of practice but eventually we got there. Overall, not bad for our first attempt. The hardest part for me was getting back upright after I'd fallen. It requires core strength and sturdy legs otherwise you end up slip-sliding to the snow again. After a couple of crashes on the beginners' run (we'd been learning in the kids' area until this point) I had had enough and was aching in the my back. Blake continued on, taking him 10 minutes to get down about 50m of the slope - but he was persistent and improved as the days progressed. Tip: If you do decide to try skiing, invest in some exercise before you go - this sport uses muscles you never knew you had!

The Hakuba area is quite large, with picturesque views to be had no matter where you look. It has long been a popular skiing destination for Australians and played host to some of the events in the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics - the Ski Jump Stadium is still there, a monstrous structure built on the side of a mountain. The buildings adopt a very alpine feel and look beautiful at night with twinkling lights illuminating the crisp white snow that rests on rooftop archways and window sills. Hakuba's main districts (Echoland, Happo and Wadano) have plenty of bars and restaurants. The only real way to get around at night is by taxi, and it's a good idea to take plenty of cash with you as there's only one ATM in town.

NEED TO KNOW

SNUG - Alpine Condos Hakuba
Located in the Wadano area, we stayed in this large, self-contained 3-bedroom apartment within easy walking distance to shops, bars, cafes and the Sakka Ski area. There are two chalets, each easily sleeps 8 people and the upstairs chalet affords great views of the mountains and lifts. They have free wi-fi and heating in every room.

FEED - Traumerei
On our last night we treated ourselves to an 8-course French degustation dinner at Michelin star restaurant Traumerei in Echoland. With full French service in a grand hotel owned and operated by one of Japan's top food and wine critics, every delicious course on the winter menu was ornately prepared and bursting with rich flavour. Book ahead for a table.

LOVE - The Penke Bar
This cosy bar in Wadano is the perfect little spot for an apres ski Asahi. It has a friendly, relaxed atmosphere and was packed with Aussies, but not the drunk 'day at the cricket' kind. There's local beers on tap and they're open late throughout the ski season. If your legs give in as early as mine did, Happy Hour is from 2-4pm.

LEAVE - The kids stuff alone!
There's not much I'd leave on this trip, apart from my pride at the top of the run. The weekends get very busy in the main eating spots and it can be hard to find somewhere to sit down. Make sure you have an English speaking ski instructor that can answer tricky questions like, "Can you explain that to me?". At times the language barrier can take some patience - especially when ordering a taxi over the phone - be persistence and polite and eventually someone will understand you. Better still - learn some Japanese before going!

Verdict: Love (of course) though I wish I'd had a bit more time to allow my body to recover for a few days and get back on the snow with my skis. Oh well, there's always next year!

Alpine Condos Hakuba. Wadano, Hakuba Mura, Nagano Pref. Japan 399-9301.
Penke Bar. Wadano, Hakuba Mura, Nagano Pref. Japan 399-9301.